For half a century Cuba has been infamous for its politics, dominated by the increasingly
wrinkled visage of Fidel Castro, who only has to cough for the world media to go
on red alert. But the polemics hide deeper secrets.
Most visitors are surprised to arrive in Havana and find, not some grey communist
dystopia, but a wildly exuberant place where the taxi drivers quote Hemingway and
even hardened cynics are ensnared by the intrigue and romance.
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